So Ron and I decided not to go snorkeling in the Keys after all. We couldn’t find a tour that would have us on the water for less than 2-3 hours, which is about 6 times as long as either of us should be in the sun. And here’s why:
On the day we would have gone snorkeling in Key Largo, we decided to spend many lazy hours reading, looking at the water (and the iguanas, as it turns out), and swimming in the hotel’s pool under the coconut palm trees. But first Ron needed a phone charger since he’d left his at home. And I needed more sunscreen. Google Maps said there was a shopping center with a CVS and a Winn Dixie right near our hotel. We started walking. It turned out to be over a mile away. We walked there and back between 9:00 and 10:00am. And we both turned up with a big enough sunburn that we stayed covered up and out of the sun entirely for the rest of the week.
Ron and me at the Island Grill, Islamorada, a few days before the wedding
Two days later, we arrived in Key West with Tessa and Justin’s wedding preparations well under way. Weston and Hannah and Tyler and his girlfriend all arrived the same day we did. The next few days were spent bonding over manis and pedis with a group of women including the bride and her friends and family, listening to beautiful toasts to the bride and groom on the rooftop deck of our house during the rehearsal dinner, and getting ready for and attending the most beautiful wedding I’ve ever been a part of.
A couple of hours before the ceremony, Ron, Hannah, and I were left in charge of Bege: Help her get dressed and make sure she gets to the right place at the right time. Everyone else was already at the venue, having reported earlier for photos. As I helped Bege slip into her Lily Pulitzer pantsuit, I was struck again by the thought of this generous soul who had nothing to gain by letting me into her life at this late date, yet she seemed to take it all in stride. She’d been warming up to me, and now we were really getting intimate, with my helping to pull her top over her hair without messing it up.
After I finished helping Bege, I dressed myself. Both Ron and I happen to favor sort of a retro style when we get fancy. He’d bought a seersucker suit, and I had kind of a 60s thing happening with a turquoise dress and coral beads and gold heels. Bege had never seen me with lipstick on, I think, until the moment we were about to get into the car to go to the wedding venue. As I came out of the sliding glass door, she looked me up and down and with more emphasis than anything she’s ever said to me, she blurted out “I see it now. You look just like Nancy.” Nancy, also known as Toes, was Bege’s sister who passed away less than a year before I came on the scene. Several people had told me I look very much like she did at my age, and I can see it in certain photos. I think the image of me in a sort of 60s flashback outfit, complete with the same red hair Toes had, swung Bege from hesitance to a believer: I was a part of the fold, even if she didn’t really know me yet. “You look like a million bucks,” she said.
Before the ceremony, there were family photographs at the venue–the Westin hotel. Oh crap, I realized: I never thought of this. I don’t want to make anyone uncomfortable. I don’t know what photos I’m supposed to be in! The photographer had obviously been briefed ahead of time on who was who and who should be in what photos, and it was all handled so artfully. Tessa and Susan obviously planned meticulously, just as they did for the rest of the day. I joined in several photos of the bride and her siblings, and then I exited for a couple of photos of Tessa with just Weston and Tyler. Very smoothly done. If you’re ever wondering how to take family wedding photos when a long-lost person shows up, take lessons from this family: Some with, and some without.
In Key West, when the sun sets, people gather to watch, and then they clap once the last sliver had dropped below the water line on the horizon.
When Ron and I walked into the ceremony seating area, I realized everyone else except the wedding party was already seated and that only the front row–the family seats–were open. Oh, right. That is where we sit. In the few minutes remaining before the ceremony started, I chatted with the people seated nearby. All cousins. Susan is an only child and has no siblings, and she’s very close to her first cousins and their children. So now I have a metric crapton of cousins!
My cousin Mary Simpson and me at the reception
Ron and I took our seats in the front row, and then my grandmother, Bege, was escorted in with Susan. Susan sat, and as we all turned to watch Tessa walk down the aisle, escorted by her brothers (and now mine) Weston and Tyler, Bege jumped up, walked to the railing overlooking the water, saying “I’d like to look overboard.” I’d been in a trance, because duh, this whole year has been amazing and weird, so I tuned in right when I realized Bege had said “OVERBOARD” and was heading for the water. I jumped up to chaperone her and to coax her back to her seat so the bride could come in and, you know, she and Justin could get married.
And get married they did! The ceremony was beautiful and brief but meaningful. The sun set minutes afterward, creating that otherworldly light photographers call “the golden hour.” We ate, and danced, and I got to know my new cousins more. My Camp Mont Shenandoah friends–who everyone knows are the world’s sweatiest, most energetic dancers–would have been put to shame by the moves of Weston and especially his wife, Hannah. Weston retained all his cotillion dancing chops, and Hannah did multiple splits on the dance floor. Feeling the need to up my game, I stole Jessica Henkin’s charming “LOOK AT ME IMMA HORSEY!” hipster gallup, leading the dance floor in a horse-train move combo that I hope no one has recorded on video.
After a few hours of sweaty sweaty partying, with paper lanterns strung overheard lighting us just enough to see our way to the bar and back, the Caribbean Queen Junkanoo Band–hired as a surprise gift by Susan for Tessa and Justin–appeared to march the entire party a few blocks away to continue the partying on Duval Street. We hummed in our kazoos while the processional percussion band drummed and the entire wedding party spun like happy fools down the walkways and streets of Key West.
I’m thrilled to have a sister and that I got to witness her wedding to a wonderful man. I’m also thrilled to have been in attendance at the most fun wedding I’ve ever been to (after my own to Ron, of course).